Tour du Mont Blanc: Trient to Champex-Lac

As we had done the previous few mornings, we dressed and packed our bags before breakfast.  When we finally opened our room’s metal shutters and discovered low clouds, I changed my entire outfit from shorts and a tank top to nearly all the layers I had brought along, including the rain gear.

Snow fence to help protect the valley from avalanche.

Soon after we left the small valley town of Trient, we climbed almost 1,000 ft. in the first half mile and quickly shed layers beneath our rain coats.  The firm dirt trail turned into a river as we climbed higher into the low clouds and fog.  Any views that were promised in our guidebook were hidden below. 

Cold, wet, and reaping few rewards from all the climbing, I reached a low mental point and plodded along in the mud scowling from beneath my brimmed running hat.  Interestingly enough, when I become the most tired, I speed up, trying to finish earlier.  The rain turned to graupel and then to snow; I found myself relieved.  I prefer snow to rain, especially in the mountains.  Mountains are gorgeous in the snow.  A fresh blanket of snow coated the green trees and mountainsides.  I felt my spirits lighten as the landscape changed color.

We arrived at the Alp Bovine, our high point of the day and a small dairy farm that supplements their income by providing trail refreshments to the passing TMB hikers.  We took advantage of the warm building and ordered some soup, cheese, and bread for lunch.  I could get used to this type of backpack trip.  Want to come and cook all my meals for me?

With renewed energy, we took off running the beautiful white trail.  The clouds began to lift and we were finally able to enjoy the views from our high up vantage point.  The snow soon stopped and we continued down until the snowy views turned to bright green.  Much of this day followed dirt roads and passed quickly as we ran.  I finally figured out a way to adjust my pack so it wouldn’t hurt my shoulders.  Although we were moving downhill, the extra weight of my nearly 20 lb. pack felt like I was running uphill.  Remind me to never gain that much weight; it isn’t fun to carry around. 

Also, a day into our trip, I realized that nearly everything I brought was the same shade of blue: both of my hats, my rain coat, a tank top, my pack and its cover---all that same blue color.  Don't let me buy blue workout clothes ever again.

On a particular gnarly part of the trail, overrun with roots and downed trees, I heard a skidding on the trail behind me.  I turned back to see a mountain biker, his face splattered with muddy freckles.  His bike was lodged on top of one of the small downed trees.  He fumbled awkwardly to get out of his bike clips, off the bike, and removed it from the tree.  Then he smiled, said hi, and continued on his way.  If that happened to me, I’d swear off biking forever.  Mountain bikers here are pretty hard core.  Or suicidal.  One of the two.

We meandered through neighborhoods, admiring the gorgeous wooden homes with the colorful shutters.  Matt particularly enjoyed the meticulous gardens, vegetables lush and in neat rows free of weeds.  I enjoyed the fields of wildflowers.  Unlike many wild fields in the U.S. that are dominated by a single invasive species of flower, this one included dozens of native flowers existing in harmony.

By midday we arrived in Champex-Lac, a small resort town centered on a reservoir lake.  The sun finally made an appearance and once we hung our wet things in the hotel room, we headed out to explore the town.

Then we got hungry.  Crepes called to us.  They were delicious.  We had dinner a few hours later, and then enjoyed the luxury of a private room by rubbing our sore legs and getting to bed early.

19km (11.75 mi.)

929m (3,048 ft.) gain

742m (2,434 ft.) loss