Racing the Darkness, Yosemite 4.

(November 10,2011, Thursday)

Based on Ewa'srecommendation, we decided to make our longest Yosemite hike to Cloud's Rest. Both of the roads leading into the high country were already closed for the season, so we had to approach it from the valley.

Happy Isles to Vernal Fall

The hike from Happy Isles to Vernal Falls was 2.5 miles of climbing. The first half was along a paved trail, the second, basically a set of rock staircases leading up a narrowing canyon wall. Vernal Falls was absolutely breathtaking. The sound of crashing water on the rocks below the falls was almost deafening. And all the waterfalls are at their driest right now. I've been told that this falls is drenching in the summer and you're supposed to take head-to-toe rain gear and you'll most likely still be soaked.


Again, it was nearly a mile of stairs leading up. About one million individual steps, alright maybe just 500. With the recent snow melt, I'm glad we waited to do this hike later in the week. Monday was probably slick.

In this video is Vernal Fall. You can hear some of the noise it made; weathered rocks at the bottom; ice on the stairs; and a couple hikers that look soooo small.

Vernal Fall to Nevada Fall

I don't consider myself an experienced hiker. I still make stupid mistakes. But hiking popular trails make my confidence soar. Matt and I watched a solo hiker, probably in his mid-20s. As we rested above Vernal Fall, he searched for the trail. A sign for the trail was up a icy slope. Some of the rocks were smooth and slippery, others were jagged. Which way did he decide to go up? Yeah, the really slippery icy slope. Matt and I just watched him find his way, while thinking, don't fall dude. By the time we had noticed him, he had gotten himself stuck on a pretty dangerous spot. Nothing we could've really told him that would help. He crawled his way out of the icy patch. For the rest of the hike, he followed behind Matt and I, watching what we were doing before making his own move.

I am still baffled by the amount of stone work that went into these trails. Nobody hauls these rocks in. They are chipped away right along the trail and then fitted together like puzzle pieces to create stairs. Incredible.

Nevada Fall to Half Dome

I was grateful to reach the Little Yosemite Valley. The miles just whizzed by on the flatter trail. The trail was almost impossible to lose. Every once in awhile, a stone staircase would appear.

Climbing higher, we reached an area still blanketed in snow. The deepest areas were probably 6-8 inches. We also came across bear tracks, laid atop the hiker footprints we occasionally saw. Big tracks and small tracks. Oh goody, a Mama and cub. We never caught sight of the bears, but new footprints were laid above ours when we returned.

We abandoned our goal of Cloud's Rest at the Half Dome trail junction. We had enough energy but not enough daylight, and I didn't really want to navigate the trail below Vernal Fall in the dark.

Just below the steepest part of Half Dome (that requires the use of seasonal cable ladders to summit), we had lunch. Snapping a few photos, chatting, and trying to stay out of the wind. Matt and I talked about our week here. He was glad that we had devoted this much time to Yosemite. I agreed, and added that our bank account probably liked it too. "Yeah, only after we butt-raped our debit card at Sports Basement and REI earlier this week." Details, details. :)

After 4,000 ft of climbing to our highest point at 7,800 ft., this was officially our first hike together at elevation. When I was last at elevation, I was in New Mexico visiting my brother. It was horrible. I made sure to eat a lot and add an electrolyte tab to my water. Seemed to help. We discussed our adventures for next year. We could probably do something in the mountains after all. Possibilities : Tahoe Rim Trail 50K, Crater Lake Marathon. Anybody have other ideas?

The landscape was completely different from the mountains I was used to seeing. A mix of jagged and smooth peaks jumped out. All the mountains had some trees on them. Very unlike the 3,000 ft treeline in the Alaska Range.

Return Trip

I was thankful for strong quad muscles, because it was downhill practically the whole way.

To make up some time, Matt and I jogged a little bit of the snowy sections.

We had dinner at Vernal Fall just before darkness fell. Several upward bound hikers passed by. They were wearing cotton and light coats. No backpacks or lights. I hoped they knew what they were doing. Just as we returned to the pavement section, it was dark enough that I needed a headlamp to see.

Total : 13 miles, 8,000 ft. elevation change, 8h45.

Total weekly mileage : 60.2